[RAS Korea] Remembering Korea's freedom fighters

The Grand Hall of the Nation in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

By Steven L. Shields

Nestled in a beautiful valley not far from the city of Cheonan in South Chungcheong Province, the Independence Hall of Korea bears enduring witness to the Korean people's struggle against Japanese colonialism in the early half of the 20th century. The memorial was officially opened on Aug. 15, 1987, having been delayed by an accidental fire during construction.

Entering the grounds, visitors are met with the skyward swooping Monument to the Nation. The towering wings remind one of a soaring bird or a phoenix rising from the ashes. On one side is the "taegeuk" symbol, and on the other, the mugunghwa (rose of Sharon).

Monument to the Nation at the Independence Hall of Korea in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

The broad avenue leads to the Grand Hall of the Nation, a massive traditional-style open pavilion that houses the heart-stirring Statue of Indomitable Koreans. The sculpture is a massive representation of the many patriots who fought and died for Korea's independence during the struggle against Japanese oppressors. The artistic style of the statue is clearly from a bygone era but is powerfully moving, nonetheless. I remember my first visit to the hall not long after it opened, and I recall the pounding beat of martial music from the loudspeakers. However, more than 30 years later, on my visit last month, I found the music to be more somber, almost mournful, in reverence for those heroes, both known and unknown, who struggled for so many decades.

The grounds around the Grand Hall include a monument on a nearby hill hoping for unification. A stone garden contains a few broken remnants of the Japanese Government-General building built in downtown Seoul, blocking access to the royal palace. The Government-General building served as a central government office for the Republic of Korea into the early 1980s, when it was turned into the National Museum. Some of the first meetings of the Republic's new government were held in the building. Syngman Rhee was inaugurated as the first president on its steps in 1948. Finally, during the administration of President Kim Young-sam, the building's demolition was completed, with the detritus hauled off to be used as landfill.

The finial from the top of the Japanese Government-General building that once stood in front of Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul, is now displayed in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province. / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

Seven exhibition halls form an arc behind the grand hall. Six exhibitions are permanent explorations of the several phases of the struggle for an autonomous Korean government. The first exhibit hall looks back into distant history. It showcases the deep-rooted Korean spirit from prehistoric times up to about 1860. Continuing chronologically around the arc, visitors are introduced to various persons and the many struggles experienced over the decades of the 1897-1910 Korean Empire and the 1910-45 Japanese colonial era. Art, film, documents and artifacts are displayed with some explanation. Brochures for each exhibit hall are available in several languages. The permanent exhibition halls chronicle events such as the signing of the 1905 Eulsa Treaty, considered extra-legal on all counts.

The monument to the patriots inside the Grand Hall in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

The March 1st Movement of 1919 is explained in a hall dedicated to that event and subsequent efforts to preserve the integrity of the Korean language and the Korean declaration of independence. A dictionary of the Korean language is also highlighted. That project was primarily conducted in secrecy, with copies of the manuscript carefully hidden from the Japanese authorities. Finally, in the sixth permanent exhibition, guests are introduced to the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea and many of the key personalities responsible for keeping the possibility of an independent nation alive. Artifacts on display include a signed document commemorating the return to Korea of members of the provisional government. Most of them had been living in exile in the United States or China.

Not far from Independence Hall is the birthplace and memorial hall for one of Korea's most famous patriots, Yu Gwan-sun. Yu, a young female high school student, was a vocal advocate of Korea's fight for freedom. Yu was prominent in the independence movement but was arrested within days of the March 1 demonstrations. Her parents were killed in the violence. Her memorial hall and shrine were built on the site of the Japanese military police station, where she was first incarcerated. Yu was later transferred to Seodaemun Prison in Seoul, with a sentence of three years. However, due to extreme torture by the Japanese police, Yu never completed her sentence. She died in prison in September 1920. Each year, a signal fire festival is held at the memorial site, and a ceremony for this martyr is conducted annually on Sept. 28, the date of her passing.

A statue of Yu Gwan-sun is displayed at her memorial shrine, not far from the Independence Hall of Korea, in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province. / Courtesy of Steven L. Shields

Nearby Byeongcheon is the site of a lively outdoor market and is home to Korea's most famous sundae (blood sausage). The village is between Yu's memorial and Independence Hall. Byeongcheon Sundae cannot be missed if you are in the area.

Although within the extended city limits of Cheonan, the Independence Hall complex is some distance from the city proper. A bus ride of about 30 minutes from either Cheonan Station (Line 1 from Seoul) or Cheonan-Asan Station (KTX) goes to the complex. Alternatively, there is plenty of parking for private cars, should you choose that route for your visit. While the memorial halls have no entrance fee, the parking fee is nominal. Several convenience stores throughout the complex and fast food and coffee shops are also available. It is closed on Mondays. Visit global.i815.or.kr/en for details in English.

The Independence Hall of Korea and Yu Gwan-sun Memorial are somber places, to be sure. They remind us that life is not always fun and games. A visit to such places helps one understand the Korean spirit more deeply and appreciate the price of freedom more clearly.

Rev. Steven L. Shields is president of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea (www.raskb.com) and columnist for The Korea Times. Visit raskb.com or email royalasiatickorea@gmail.com for more information about the society.