Food is philosophy

 

If K-pop music and cinema cemented Korea as a global entertainment juggernaut, then Korean food is transforming it into an epicenter of culture. As a chef and business owner, I've noticed the growing interest in Korean food from gourmets around the world.

When the New York City Michelin Guide was released last November, 71 restaurants that received one, two and three-star ratings, and among those, 10 were Korean restaurants. Korean food is garnering recognition faster than any other type of cuisine.

Experts say that the popularity of Korean food will continue to grow, especially as Korean chain restaurants have expanded into the United States.

I also have seen this growth first-hand at my own restaurant in Seoul. I have been operating a fine dining restaurant for the past two years that showcases South and North Korean food, with the course menu centered around two concepts: "sundae" (Korean blood sausage) and fermentation. Despite sundae not being as universally popular as mainstream dishes like "tteokbokki," a spicy rice cake dish, and "bibimbap," a Korean rice dish with mixed vegetables, the proportion of foreigners who have visited my restaurant to try has exceeded 24 percent in the past year.

I believe this is, in part, due to the increased production and popularity of Korean food content, such as online reviews, YouTube videos, multimedia news stories and more. It is truly an exciting time to be a chef cooking Korean food.

However, it would be foolish to expect it to continue to be as well-received and popular in 10 years as it is now. The type of food and cuisine that is trending today can be practically changed or forgotten tomorrow. Japanese food gained tremendous popularity around the world 30 years ago and while its popularity is enormous today, there is no guarantee that it will be the same.

Kimchi, bulgogi and fried chicken used to be the top three words associated with the term Korean food, but that has certainly changed today. Some excellent restaurants have pioneered modern Korean food, attracting gourmets around the world.

Modern Korean food has largely proven two things. First, how Korea's own take on fermentation can be loved and enjoyed around the world. And second, that the strength of Korean people and our traditions can belong anywhere. It is these traditions especially that we must not forget.

Before the Korean fine dining restaurant, there was Korean temple food with its rich history and time-honored recipes. Each region even has its own distinct flavor, which makes each dish special and unique.

Recently, I had the opportunity to talk with a chef who is also an expert on local food in Chungcheong Province. Currently in his 70s, this chef taught me that cooking is not just about the food or the recipe, it's about the philosophy behind it. This includes the history of its preparation, the nutritional benefits it has been known to give and how much passion and discipline it takes to make.

Learning the philosophy behind a cuisine is so central to being not only a chef but even an epicure. I have studied various cuisines from many different countries over the past 20 years, including Japanese, Italian, French and Latin American food. However, I've learned that, in the end, if you don't understand the traditions or philosophy behind a dish, there will always be a barrier to fully enjoying it, which consequently can hinder its accessibility and evolution.

If we want to make the future of Korean food brighter, we must place value in our traditions and roots. As one of Korea's young chefs, I still follow this rule in the kitchen today.

Choi Ji-hyung is the head chef of Lee Buk Bang, a restaurant specializing in "sundae" (pig intestines stuffed with various ingredients) in western Seoul's Mapo District. He breaks the stereotype of Korean street food and brings it to the level of haute cuisine. His restaurant earned a Michelin Plate distinction in 2019, first as a restaurant serving sundae, and it maintains the accolade.