Yongsan History Museum - A Window into the Past

The Yongsan ferry landing in the 1890s, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

It is no secret that Seoul is filled with coffee shops; they are everywhere and often right next to one another. They are so common that one barely notices them. Surprisingly, Seoul also has a large number of museums, which ― like the coffee shop ― are often passed by unnoticed.

I have a great affinity for coffee shops and museums ― especially those with a past and that breathe history. Recently, while searching for a place to get a good cup of coffee, I encountered the Yongsan History Museum.

I was quite surprised with this museum. I was the only visitor (it was early on a Wednesday morning) and so I was able to enjoy my step back into the past in solitude. It is a past that deserves to be remembered ― especially by a foreigner ― because Yongsan has a long history with Americans and Japanese.

The flooded streets of Yongsan in 1925, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit Robert Neff Collection

The museum is housed in the former Yongsan Railroad Hospital ― a two-story building built in 1928. Each room of the building is dedicated to a certain period of the district's past. The first room ― the one I was most interested in ― provided the history of the river port during the Joseon period. Yongsan was always a hub of hustle and bustle, filled with people trying to make money or steal money. It was here that the river steamboats loaded and unloaded cargo and passengers, where the streetcars and rickshaw competed with one another and cultures clashed.

Another room is filled with exhibits of the Japanese occupation of Korea. Considering the somewhat volatile subject, I was very pleased with the way in which the display was arranged. There were, of course, images of the military camps that eventually became Yongsan Garrison. There were also many images of the floods of 1925 ― vivid images showing just how devastating these floods could be.

The Yongsan Railroad Hospital, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit Robert Neff Collection

There were also displays of the region following the Korean War, showing the dominance of Yongsan Garrison, the American military and the dynamics of Itaewon. Not all of it is filled with doom and gloom and of the evils long associated with the U.S. military and the surrounding camptown. It is well-balanced and provides an interesting view of Itaewon during the 1960s and 70s.

Considering the building was once used as a railroad hospital, it is not surprising to find exhibits dealing with the railroad and medicine.

A doctor's medical bag, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit. Robert Neff Collection

There are also video testimonies given by residents of the area ― the eyewitnesses of the past. Unfortunately, I was pressed for time and did not spend as much time viewing them as they deserved. I also cannot recall if there were English subtitles or not but I believe there were. However, I am sure that the staff ― which was very friendly and eager to practice their English ― would be more than willing to answer any questions you might have.

I was also surprised at how kid-friendly the museum is. There are practical lessons of history taught through interactive games ― games that humorously poke fun at the corruption of Joseon officials and merchants.

Some of the shops in the vicinity of Yongsan in the 1960-70s, seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit Robert Neff Collection

According to one of the signboards:

"Look for suspicious-looking rice bags. Someone has added water to pocket the grain tax. Open the bags to find which one," a sign says at Yongsan History Museum. Robert Neff Collection

"In April 1782, the eighth year of King Yeongjo's reign, chief boatman Park Ju-tae, who was transporting 700 seok (about 100 tons) of rice from Haeju, Hwanghae-do Province to the capital, plotted with a merchant from Gyeonggang named Joeng Su-gang. Together, they increased the weight of the rice by adding a bottle and a half of water to every one seok (about 144 kilograms), except for the 100 seok [that was] for inspection. They could misappropriate tax grain with the increased weight of the rice, but they were caught during the inspection. From then on the Joseon government strengthened cargo inspections, [but] to no avail."

It was refreshing to see such an honest approach to the past.

There is also a large rooftop rest area and garden. I think it would be nice in the future if the museum allowed soft drinks and coffee to be consumed here. Even without beverages, it is still a nice place to stop and take a breather ― especially for wayward K-pop fans (HYBE is just down the street) ― and the cost cannot be beat; there is no entrance fee. Please be aware the museum is closed on Mondays.

I didn't get my coffee but I got something better ― a balanced breath of the past.

Crowds at Yongsan Station seen in a Yongsan History Museum exhibit Robert Neff Collection

The rooftop garden of the Yongsan History Museum is a great place to get a breath of fresh air from the past and the present. Robert Neff Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.