Walking in the Footsteps of the Past: Miryang in 1884

Yeongnamnu in Miryang in the early 20th century. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

In the fall of 1884, George C. Foulk, an American naval ensign assigned to the American legation in Seoul, undertook an extensive tour through the southern part of the Korean peninsula. His observations ― carefully recorded in minute detail in his travel journals and letters home ― provide some of the best and earliest English descriptions of the regions outside of Seoul.

On the morning of December 4, 1884, Foulk was rather tired. He had spent the previous evening in a bed bug infested inn and had slept very poorly. As he and his party trudged on towards the town of Miryang (their destination), they encountered large numbers of people returning home from the large fair or market that had been held in the town on the previous day.

One can imagine that Foulk must have smiled in amusement when he recalled the unexpected entertainment from the previous evening when a Korean gentleman and his concubine ― returning from this fair ― were met in front of the inn by the gentleman's less-than-understanding wife. She ― the wife ― was furious with her husband who apparently had money to spend on his concubine but not on her. A quarrel ensued in which the women called "each other no end of bad names" before the irate wife finally attacked her husband and beat him on his head. The amusement went on for nearly an hour.

As they drew nearer to the town Foulk noticed a very graceful building ― "a hundred feet long, with two tiers, pillars below and above" ― on a bluff. About the main building were "other long roofed buildings" and Foulk proclaimed "the whole [to be] a picturesque group."

The town of Miryang in 1889. Courtesy of Brother Anthony's Collection

Apparently he was describing the pavilion of Yeongnamnu which had just recently been rebuilt by the magistrate, Yi In-jae.

While Yeongnamnu was impressive and picturesque, Miryang, at least in Foulk's eyes, wasn't ― at least in December. In his travel journal he wrote:

"[Miryang] is large, with as many houses outside the wall as in ― at least as large as Naju. The houses are poor, the south gate small but imposing. It is at the head of the plain. A little temple is on a hill east of [Yeongnamnu]. In summer, the trees, the stream, then large with boats, and the plain and hills must make a pretty view."

Miryang's Gate in 1889. Courtesy of Brother Anthony's Collection

Foulk spent all of 10 minutes inside the town before he pressed on. Miryang doesn't seem to have held much attraction for early Western visitors. In 1889, Charles Louis Varat, visited the town after being caught in a rain storm. He wrote:

"The city rises in an amphitheater on a hill, something exceptional in Korea, because we have seen that people generally live at the foot of hills, probably a survival of some ancient custom, of which it would be good to seek the origin. This ancient city presented itself to us in a most picturesque manner. Atop the hill is the yamen in ruins, of which remains only the elegant, magnificent roof supported by huge columns between which you can see the sky. Two or three temples and a few public buildings covered with multicolored tiles stand among many thatched roofs, beneath which lie the half-destroyed walls covered with moss. They dominate a magnificent plain, where here and there grow picturesque groves of trees of all kinds, around which, thanks to a resurgence of greenery, thousands of wild flowers grow; the river crosses the plain lazily, its sleeping waters shining with a white metallic glint. The interior of the old city is of the greatest archaeological interest: its streets, monuments and even houses, especially those of the nobles, mostly in ruins, have a personal nature in their outlines; their delicate and whimsical sculptures prove that here a truly native architectural art is seeking to liberate itself from Chinese influences."

The Yamen in Miryang in 1889. Courtesy of Brother Anthony's Collection

Varat confessed that he was impressed with the town and likened it to the "Nuremberg of Korea." Varat left the town with the pleasant memory of its architecture while Foulk left with the bitter taste of disappointment ― he was denied a change of horses by the local government ― and with a curious version of the tale of Arang which he carefully recorded in his journal:

Inhabitants of Miryang in 1889. Courtesy of Brother Anthony's Collection

"In ancient times the Pusa [magistrate] of Miryang had a very beautiful daughter. She was seen secretly by [Baekga, a servant boy] of the Yongmun. He bribed her Yumo, or wet nurse, and asked to get at her for a while even. The Yumo consented and on a day when the Pusa from noon till night was feasting in grand style at the Yongnam, sent for [Baekga] and told him that the girl would be alone in the Anpang, and that she would know nothing of what happened after he had entered. [Baekga] went in and the girl refused his advances, where upon he stabbed her and buried her in a bamboo thicket. The Pusa, returning, made a great outcry, but could not discover the murderer. He was in time relieved and another Pusa came. On the night of his arrival he sat alone by candle light in the Yongmun when a horrible figure appeared after he had noticed the door open. It was all in red, bloody, with disheveled hair. Approaching, it sat down before him. He died of fright. In the a.m. the Achon [a petty official] came as usual to him and, not finding him up, looked in and found him dead.

"The same fate befell four or five Pusas in succession on the night of their arrival, and finally no officer would come to live at Miryang. Finally the King assembled all of his officers and called for a volunteer. One man, a little old fellow, agreed. He was not frightened when the ghost appeared, and asked 'Be you spirit or human?' The figure said, 'I was before human, and have a story to tell. I could not do so before, for the Pusas died.' She told of her miserable burial place and [Baekga]. In the a.m. the Achon came with a rice bag as usual to carry out the Pusa, but was amazed to find him alive. [Baekga] was sent for and confessed. Remains were found whole and fresh in the thicket, [Baekga] was executed, and all was well."

Foulk didn't appear to be a very superstitious person and probably found great amusement in the tale as he copied it into his journal. He was, however, unaware that this would be one of the last carefree days of his journey back to Seoul ― later that night, the Gapsin Revolution would start, and, subsequently, would the hunt for foreigners.

I would like to thank Brother Anthony for allowing me to use his images. If you would like to read more about Charles Varat's journey you can visit Brother Anthony's page (please link). http://anthony.sogang.ac.kr/Varat/VaratSection01English.html

You can read more about George Foulk's journey in Samuel Hawley's book ― "Inside the Hermit Kingdom."

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.