19th century Hakodate and the doomed voyage of the Remi: Part 3

Geomundo (Port Hamilton) circa 1920. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

On the evening of April 25, 1860, the steamship Remi ― aided by fog and inaccurate charts ― was wrecked upon some submerged rocks near a small island off the coast of Jeolla Province. Captain Paul A. Laen and all but one of his 25 crew members and all of his 25 Chinese passengers managed to make their way safely ashore where they were well treated by their Korean rescuers. The Koreans provided their uninvited guests with warm provisions but refused to allow them to explore the island or visit their village. Laen was worried that the friendly nature of the Koreans might quickly change and the shipwrecked men would find themselves prisoners or worse.

A village headman in the 1880s. Public Domain image

Islanders and their boat in the 1880s. Public Domain image

Much to his dismay, on May 5, a group of Korean officers arrived from the mainland and, writing in Chinese, began interrogating the crew ― especially the Chinese crewmembers. The Korean officials wanted to know why the Chinese would work aboard a foreign ship and what business the Westerners were involved with in Shanghai.

Laen stressed to the Korean officials that he and his crew only desired to leave ― perhaps with a Korean boat. The senior Korean official ended that plan immediately by informing the captain that none of the Korean boats could leave the island without permission from higher authorities.

Over the next couple of days, the Korean officials frequently visited the castaway's camp and suggested they would send the foreigners to the mainland and then to the Chinese border by horseback. Laen was likely not pleased with the prospect of traveling through what many believed to be a hostile country.

During their discussions, Laen noticed the Korean officials were rather curious about the Western goods ― perhaps a little too curious. He later wrote, "We found our friendly visitors both high and low, to be great thieves of little things, their capacious coat sleeves being convenient receptacles for stole articles." This sounds at odds with other contemporary tales which praised the Koreans for their honesty and refusal to accept any gifts.

Laen described the Koreans as not having their heads shaved in the manner of the Chinese and wore their hair in "different styles, the young persons wearing two plaited tails, and the old ones having theirs done up in a knob on the top of the head." He was unaware the differences were due to marital status ― those done up in the "top-knot" were married while the others were still bachelors.

19th century Hakodate and the doomed voyage of the Remi: Part 1

2021-05-22 07:37 | About the past

19th century Hakodate and the doomed voyage of the Remi: Part 2

2021-05-24 08:52 | About the past

An islander with a load of brush in the 1880s. Public Domain image

One of his observations is rather puzzling: "The better class of these people seem to pride themselves on their feet which for men are remarkable small. Our Chinese could not help remarking on their smallness."

Finally, on May 11, the weather looked very promising and the castaways made their preparations to leave the island. It was hoped they could intercept a vessel sailing through the strait or, failing this, to make their way to Nagasaki ― some 320 kilometers away. However, before they could leave, a great feast was given in their honor.

"At noon we were visited by the five officers accompanied by a band of six musicians and a number of followers, each carrying a small low table covered with small dishes, containing Rice, cooked in different ways. Pork, Seaweed, and Soy. Large mats being spread on the beach the tables were placed in two rows, in all fifty one, the exact number but one for each of the crew and passengers. The odd table being for the presiding officer. All having been seated at the tables, a cup of Samshoo [alcohol] was served to each guest by the way of bitters before dinner. After which the music struck up, and all fell to with a will to do full justice to the good things placed before them. The Chinese in particular plied their chopsticks well, pocketed all they could not eat, and not confining themselves to their own separate tables. To witness this feast we believe the whole male population of the Island numbering about one thousand, were collected, who kept at a respectful distance."

A sketch of Geomundo's residents in the 1880s. Robert Neff Collection

Again, this display of generosity contradicts the allegations of mistreatment often given in the regional English-language newspapers. Laen declared that it brought great credit upon the Koreans, especially when compared with "civilized nations." In the late afternoon, small gifts were given to their hosts and then Laen and twenty-five crew members and passengers ― the remaining twenty-four preferred to remain on the island until help could be sent ― departed in the three boats.

Throughout the night and the following day they sailed and rowed their leaky boats. Finally, at 6 p.m., they arrived at Port Hamilton (Geomundo Islands, South Joella Province) and were greeted by the islanders who provided them with brushwood so that they could cook and make their tea. A large jar of strong drink was also provided which was probably more appreciated than the warm cup of tea. Due to the worsening weather, the castaways confined themselves to their boats and waited for the foul weather to abate.

On May 14 they were finally able to put out to sea again and with the help of a westerly breeze safely arrived in Nagasaki two days later. Housing was arranged for the shipwrecked men and the HMS Nimrod (a British 6-gun sloop) was dispatched to retrieve the remaining castaways ― Captain Laen to act as its guide.

A sketch of Geomundo and a British warship in the 1880s. Robert Neff Collection

According to Laen, "stopping but as sufficient to embark all our people we parted from our Corean friends with very favourable impressions of them," and on May 22, the British sloop arrived in Shanghai. Within days, Laen composed a rather long account of his adventure and submitted it to the editor of The North China Herald (at the time, the most influential English-language newspaper in China) stating that he hoped it "may not be uninteresting to your readers."

It was an interesting read, but, unfortunately, Korea continued to enjoy the undeserved reputation as being a land hostile to shipwrecked sailors. A reputation that would later be used as a pretext to force the Hermit Kingdom to open to the West.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.