For Insa-dong

By Bernard Rowan

Have you ever visited Insa-dong?

This district in Jongno-gu, Seoul, not far from the traditional villages of Namsangol, is a mecca for fans of Korean culture. Among the many places to visit in South Korea's capital, I'd highly recommend Insa-dong.

As an advanced nation, Korea excels in digitization, emerging technologies, global finance, and regional development. It is a fast-paced, impatient, and a constantly striving culture of achievement and progress. This might cause us to think of Hobbes' pessimistic admonition about what this all represents as far as human nature goes. I don't want to sound dour. Korea is an example to the world's nations, big and small, developing and developed. The world should learn from Korea, but too few care to pay attention. I'll say, "Many are called cold, but few are frozen!"

Insa-dong offers respite from a society with an intense work culture. Go there from a business meeting or a stay at a luxury hotel. Begin to taste what makes Korean culture distinctive, in its wonder and variety.

Insa-dong represents traditional culture. You'll find it close to the beautiful palace of Unhyeongung and the small but inviting Tapgol Park. Every day, visitors enjoy a taste of Korea here unlike that offered in most Seoul neighborhoods. There's yut-making (Korean candy), wearing traditional clothing, and the chance to see various arts performances.

Look for and find Korean fabrics, see Korean traditional paper and calligraphy, take home a beautiful lacquerware box with mother-of-pearl inlay (najeon chilgi). While prices always increase, I still buy gifts for my family and friends in Insa-dong.

I've been to Insa-dong to meet friends for dinner at a wonderful bulgogi restaurant called Chilgabsan. I've also enjoyed traditional Korean meals at restaurants like Go Gung. I've marveled at the shamanist dance of women at Sanchon, while enjoying Buddhist cuisine, vegetarian and organic.

I've walked through Insa-dong at morning, noon, and night, pondering my existence and its meaning. A leisurely stroll, a time to reflect, and a place to stop, look and listen. Insa-dong interrupts the busy district of Jongno and much of Seoul.

Make Insa-dong your center for visiting or living in Korea. You can exit at Jonggak Station on line one of the subway, but I prefer Anguk Station on line three as it takes me close to a place that sells Korean signature chops/blocks, called dojang. You're not far from many other popular Seoul districts when you're in Insa-dong too.

One problem is cars. If there should be a ban on motor vehicles accessing anyplace in Seoul, it's Insa-dong. I sometimes wonder what proud souls even want to drive down Insa-dong-gil, the main road through this charming place.

Insa-dong shows us the face of Korean culture looking backward, as it moves forward. Koreans are prone to avoiding attachment to their Confucian past, to their ''quiet calm", and to their subtle cultivation of the soft practices of high culture. In an era that pays too much homage to money and wealth, to market shares, and to national, regional, and global power, Insa-dong looks anachronistic.

But look deeper and you'll understand Korea better. You'll need to get past the tourist trap quality of the place. Don't fixate on prices. You'll need to tolerate the crowds on busy days and the occasional busker or wandering homeless person.

In Insa-dong, I once met a person who connected me to visiting Korean orphans. That experience marked me permanently, and helped me see the need for acceptance of single mothers.

I once bought a wonderful artwork of a Korean family standing by their traditional home and a large tree. I did so just after marrying. Insa-dong gave me a symbol of my life. I remember going to sit down at an open-air concert on one of the side streets and pondering my happiness. Insa-dong does this for countless people every day.

Visit the information center located at the north entrance to the district. You can learn about everything from Buddhist temple stays to other local places. Don't miss out. Enjoy Insa-dong! Keep coming back!

Insa-dong, Insa-dong

How I long to visit you.

For some time, at least once a year.

I walk your way

And you greet me.

Fast to enter your streets.

Slow me down, slow me down.

I can't see what I need to feel,

If I'm in a hurry to leave, like a busy clown.

Wonderful tea,

Delicious food,

Korean traditions abound.

How I could stay here for a long time.

Pity the fool who leaves after glancing around.

Year-in and out

As time wants us to go away

I shall return for another day.

To learn more of the Korea I love.

Keep going, and stay strong.

Over and beyond the fads of today.

Not single, but more rare, like Arirang, the song.

You are a hagwon of care, of injeong.

You are something special to me.

Bernard Rowan is assistant provost for curriculum and assessment, professor of political science and faculty athletics representative at Chicago State University, where he has served for 21 years. He can be reached at browan10@yahoo.com.