Walking in the footsteps of the past: Seeking privacy and serenity

The Korea Times

The Korea Times

Opinion

Thu, December 7, 2023 | 23:04

Walking in the footsteps of the past: Seeking privacy and serenity

Posted : 2020-06-14 09:06

Updated : 2020-06-14 16:03

Gwanchoksa Temple, circa 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

As mentioned yesterday, in the fall of 1884, George C. Foulk, an ensign in the U.S. Navy temporarily assigned to the American legation in Seoul, traveled extensively around the Korean Peninsula.

Over the past year or so, I have tried to follow Foulk's journey. There are, of course, differences. He did his journey on foot or in a palanquin while I have done mine by bus and bicycle. This week I traveled to Nonsan.

For me, the roads have been relatively smooth (but in some places dangerous due to the lack of bicycle lanes and heavy traffic), with convenience stores and public restrooms readily available ― Foulk would have probably killed for the latter convenience.

One of Foulk's greatest inconveniences was the lack of privacy, especially when it came to the call of nature. In his journal he wrote:

"I went to the W.C. this a.m., a little ring of rushes in the yard, filthy and obscene beyond expression. Fully 150 people of all kinds stood by silently watching me with the most unconcerned manner in the world. My eventful life as a traveler has no doubt made me coarse in some ways, but indeed I suffered while undergoing this scrutiny. There seems to be not the faintest idea of modesty and of allowing privacy among the people."

Gwanchoksa Temple and the Maitreyea Bodhisattva, June 2020. Robert Neff Collection

The Maitreyea Bodhisattva at Gwanchoksa Temple, circa 1910. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection

He denounced the experience as the worst he had ever had ― quite a statement from a 19th century naval officer. Yet, despite the bad start to his day, Foulk was looking forward to seeing the giant Miryok at Gwanchoksa Temple that he had heard so much about.

Throughout the morning he and his party trudged through the flat plain. It was a relatively easy trek as there were few trees or rock formations to hinder their journey. Within a short time they spotted the temple on a wooded plateau that towered over the vast plain.

He was convinced that it had once been a fortified temple as evidenced by the remnants of the strong wall that once guarded this holy site. There were two gates ― one to the east and the other to the west ― that were made from heavy stone and shaped like doors. According to one of the priests, a river or stream once ran along the base of the wall and was spanned by a bridge.

According to the legend, during the Goryeo period, a young peasant girl was gathering brush and wood when a huge stone suddenly arose out of the ground. She reported the incident to officials who determined the stone was supposed to be an image of the Maitreyea Bodhisattva ― the future Buddha ― and work began shortly afterward to transform it into this vision. After some 30 years of labor, the statue was finished in 1006.

A small gate leading to the temple complex, June 2020. Robert Neff Collection

Foulk was told that there was "a gold (said to be) plate, a full ten inches in diameter, with a crystal ball in the center" ― whether he saw it or not is unclear but he did notice that "the hat piece [was] very large and carved on the underside nicely. The northwest corner was broken off, but mended with great iron hooks very well. The image showed signs of repairs and was in good condition."

Despite the great efforts he took to visit the site, he didn't seem to be that impressed. "There was nothing prehistoric about the place at all. In this respect, the [Paju] images are superior to this." After only a short break, he and his party continued on their way.

If you would like to know more about Foulk's journey, I highly recommend Samuel Hawley's book, "Inside the Hermit Kingdom."