The Forgotten Russian Christmas

A Russian postcard of Seoul from the early 1900s / Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection

For many people, Christmas is the holiday for giving. A time to gather together with friends and family, put aside petty differences and concentrate on making things better. Gifts are exchanged, toasts are made and all enjoy a bountiful feast — even during years marked with turbulence, unrest and disease.

It might surprise a lot of you to know that today the Russian Orthodox Church celebrates Christmas. I have always found it interesting how Christmas was celebrated in Korea.

Although I am just concentrating on Seoul, there were Christmas parties held on Dec. 25 in Fusan (modern Busan), Jemulpo (modern Incheon), Pyongyang and Wonsan. I am assuming, although I have nothing to verify my assumptions, the Russian community in Masan (modern-day Changwon, South Gyeongsang Province) also held Christmas parties on Jan. 7.

In Seoul, Dec. 25 was always celebrated with parties in which most of, if not all, the foreign community was invited. Even in 1884, following the Gapsin Coup attempt, the handful of Americans and English had a little Christmas party — complete with simple gifts and baked beans (the menu was relatively limited).

In the 1890s, Christmas parties were held at the Seoul Union and were well-attended events, not just by the foreign community, but also Korean women, children and officials. The Russian ambassador and his family also attended these parties and often contributed Christmas trees, gifts, chocolates and other festive items. In fact, the Russian contributions seem to have been disproportionately more than the American and British.

Yet, despite the active participation by the Russians at the Christmas parties held on Dec. 25, there is hardly a mention of Americans attending Russian Orthodox Christmas events on Jan. 7. Even John Mahelm Berry Sill, the American minister to Korea from 1894-1897, and his family hardly mentioned the Russian celebration in their letters — and they were great friends with the Russian minister and his family!

In December 1896, The Korean Repository (a magazine published in Seoul) wrote:

“Santa Claus made his usual visit to the little folks on the night of the 24th, filled their stockings and departed. They voted him a great success, and wished him a prosperous journey westward to his little friends. On the 27th, Madame Waeber [wife of the Russian minister to Korea] gave a Christmas tree in the rooms of the Seoul Union; the children sang; Mr. Stein, of the Russian Legation, gave a well-executed recital on the violin; U.S. Minister Sill made an appropriate address and closed by thanking Madame Waeber for the pleasant entertainment given to the children.”

In January 1897, the Independent, a newspaper published in Seoul, wrote:

“The Russian Legation was prettily decorated by gorgeous lanterns in front of the building in the shape of a ship. The Russian Minister and Mrs. Waeber invited the Russian officials in the city and gave a dinner party in honor of the day; and the guards had their own fete in the lower buildings, by bountiful repast and merry conversations. The illumination of the lanterns in the evening produced a charming effect on the hill where the Legation is situated.”

Despite my best efforts, I have been unable to find any other accounts of these Russian Christmas parties — the normal sources, the diaries and letters of American missionaries, diplomats and advisers, make no mention of attending. Even the English-language newspapers and magazines published in Korea are strangely silent about the celebrations, and instead concentrate on the other functions held on the same date.

Considering the importance so many people place upon Christmas, it seems surprising that the foreign community in Seoul chose to ignore the opportunity of celebrating it again. It is a shame that a day many held sacred could be marred by politics and religion in the past — and in the present.

My appreciation to Diane Nars for allowing me to use her image

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including "Letters from Joseon," "Korea Through Western Eyes" and "Brief Encounters."