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Could China's cabbage scandal hurt kimchi's booming popularity in US?

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The new U.S. dietary guidelines food graphic, left, and kimchi photographed for popular Korean food blog My Korean Kitchen. Korea Times file

The new U.S. dietary guidelines food graphic, left, and kimchi photographed for popular Korean food blog My Korean Kitchen. Korea Times file

SEATTLE — A food safety scandal involving formaldehyde-treated napa cabbage in China is raising a new question for kimchi’s fast-growing presence in the United States: Could the controversy hurt American consumers’ appetite for the Korean staple?

Chinese authorities recently confirmed that napa cabbages were illegally soaked in a solution containing formaldehyde, a chemical classified as a human carcinogen, to keep them fresh during transportation, prompting an investigation and efforts to trace where the affected produce was distributed.

The case quickly raised concerns about kimchi, the main ingredient of which is typically napa cabbage.

Korea has strengthened inspections of cabbage imported from China and is seeking to determine whether produce linked to the case entered the country. There is currently no evidence that any affected cabbage or kimchi has reached the U.S.

Still, the controversy comes as kimchi enjoys unprecedented visibility among American consumers.

Once found mainly at Korean restaurants and Asian supermarkets, kimchi has become a mainstream food in the U.S., showing up everywhere from major grocery chains to burgers, tacos and other dishes far removed from traditional Korean cuisine.

News of the scandal has prompted questions about store-bought kimchi.

“Are kimchi sold in stores made with that cabbage?” one Instagram user asked in response to a news report about the scandal.

For U.S. shoppers, however, determining where the cabbage in a particular jar of kimchi comes from may not be straightforward, as the relevant law in the U.S. requires manufacturers only to identify ingredients but not their individual countries of origin.

The U.S. market also includes kimchi manufactured in China. Import records available through trade data platforms show commercial shipments from China containing whole and sliced napa cabbage kimchi entering the country.

There is no indication that those products were connected to the current formaldehyde case.

Even without evidence of affected products reaching the U.S., the scandal could create an image problem for kimchi.

As kimchi reaches a broader U.S. audience, the controversy could draw greater attention to its increasingly global supply chain, including where its cabbage is grown and where the finished product is manufactured.

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