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Sat, July 2, 2022 | 19:33

Walking in the footsteps of the past: Namhansanseong in 1884 (part one)

In the fall of 1884, George C. Foulk, a naval officer attached to the American legation in Seoul, undertook an arduous tour of the region surrounding Seoul. One of the last places on his tour was the mountain fortress known as Namhansanseong. This fortress was built in the 1620s to serve as an emergency palace and administration center in the event Seoul was threatened or cap...

2020-08-22 10:33

Trying to keep cool in Fusan

In the late 19th century, the small foreign community at Fusan (now modern Busan) often escaped the stifling summer heat by bathing (swimming) at one of the nearby beaches. William Nelson Lovatt, Commissioner of Customs at that port, and his family often went to the beach and frolicked in the shallows while searching for pretty shells.

2020-08-16 13:32

Mosquitoes in 19th-century Seoul

The rainy season in Korea has always been miserable but what follows its cessation can be equally tormenting - the season of mosquitoes. In the letters and diaries of foreigners who lived or visited Korea in the summers of the late 19th century, mosquitoes are mentioned frequently.

2020-08-15 10:48

Treasures along the Han River: Memorial placates the drowned

Standing - almost forgotten - on the south bank of the Han River just below the Hangang Bridge is a monument that many cyclists ride by without even noticing. The handful of people who do stop are probably unaware of its past or its purpose.

2020-08-09 09:30

Feeling the heat: The luxury of ice in Joseon

It is said that, as time passes, everything changes - unfortunately this is not true in regards to Seoul's oppressive summers. In the late 19th century, it wasn't uncommon for the more affluent residents of Seoul to abandon the city and seek relief in the mountains or along the coasts. Those who were left behind had to contend with, in addition to the heat, swarms of flies du...

2020-08-08 09:38

Views of Korea from an Englishman's Pen (Part 2)

From his ideal location in Japan (Yokohama - the primary port), Wirgman seems to have found it amusing to watch the various Western powers seeking to establish treaties with Korea - especially the British.

2020-08-02 15:25

Views of Korea from an Englishman's pen (Part 1)

Views of Korea from an Englishman's pen (Part 1)

Charles Wirgman (1832-1891) is an unlikely witness of Korean history - especially considering, as far as I know, he never visited the country. But his view of the peninsula from afar is, nonetheless, interesting and entertaining.

2020-08-01 10:39

Views of Korea from an Englishman's Pen (Part 2)

Sleepless in Seoul in 1901: Placating the gods

For many Koreans, 1901 was a year filled with deficiencies. One of the most pressing was the lack of rain that many superstitious people thought was a sign of displeasure from the gods. In July, sacrifices were made throughout the country in hope of bringing the much-needed rain. Along the Han River, several bags of coins and a number of pigs were thrown into the water in hop...

2020-07-26 09:17

Sleepless in Seoul in 1901

For the foreign residents of Seoul, particularly in the Jeongdong area, a good night's sleep was a rare commodity in 1901. Throughout the night, residents were incessantly attacked by ravenous bedbugs. This was not the first time, according to legend, that the city had been plagued with these insidious pests.

2020-07-25 11:01

The voyage of Two Brothers - Korea's first encounter with Americans (part two)

Life aboard the Two Brothers became too unbearable for some of the crew and they decided to take their chances with the sea. It is not clear how, but soon Melville Kelsey (23), Thomas McGuire (21), David Barnes (20), and Edward Brailey (18) soon found themselves in one of the small wooden boats the whaler used to hunt down whales.

2020-07-19 13:58

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