My Seoul Story Sungkyunkwan: connecting to Korea's ancient academic history

Sungkyunkwan / Courtesy of Chris Boreman

This is the first in a series of contributions about Seoul’s charms as seen from foreigners’ points of view ― ED.

By Chris Boreman

When I first came to Sungkyunkwan University (SKKU) in Seoul two years ago for a job interview, the first thing I noticed was the old Korean structures along the right side of the road. “What do these have to do with the university?”

Chris Boreman

When I stopped by after the interview, I discovered I was standing in Sungkyunkwan’s original Joseon Dynasty-era campus from back when it was a royal Confucian academy. I would later learn of the close relationship the school had with the politics of the period and how many people who once graced the halls of old Sungkyunkwan would go on to be profoundly influential on Korean history.

I got the job, and to my delight, my duties included working as a tour guide on the old campus. I have had the chance to guide university presidents, ambassadors, industrial leaders and others through the old campus. I always enjoy seeing them marvel at the beautiful historic buildings.

Sungkyunkwan was originally founded in Seoul in 1398 shortly after the newly established Joseon Dynasty relocated the nation’s capital there. The new dynasty brought interest in Confucian principles which would have a substantial impact on the culture of the era. The academy instructed students from the aristocratic class primarily on works of Confucian and other classical Chinese literature. To enter and ultimately graduate, students had to pass a series of civil service examinations, after which they would often go on to serve in government positions. Most of the famous scholars and statesmen who shaped the nation’s politics and academia graduated from Sungkyunkwan.

The old campus was built based on geomancy, meaning that its front faces directly south and is designed around the four cardinal directions. This was considered the best design to be harmonious with nature, one of the key attributes of Joseon architecture. Due to its open courtyards and plant life, it makes for a beautiful and relaxing tour through its grounds during any season. Spring and autumn, however, are considered the best times to visit due to the comfortable weather and opportunities to see flowers or colorful foliage.

The old campus opens its gates at 9 a.m. every day, closing at 6 p.m. in warmer months and 5 p.m. in the winter. Entry is always free, even during special ceremonies, and it is listed as National Historic Site 143. My favorite landmarks to see are Myeongnyundang, the lecture hall which is on the Korean 1,000 won bill and the university’s symbol, and the large ancient ginkgo trees, one of which is National Monument 59. Dongjae, the eastern dormitory which was still inhabited by SKKU students until the early 2000s, is a relaxing place where you can still see students reading or relaxing between classes. There is also the Munmyo Shrine area where Confucianists still perform ancient ceremonies. The university’s formal graduation ceremonies are conducted there as well.

The Seoul city government has considered requesting UNESCO World Heritage Status for Sungkyunkwan, although nothing has happened yet. As it is only a short walk from Changgyeong Palace and the bustling Daehangno, it is only a matter of time before more visitors discover one of Seoul’s most underrated tourist destinations.

I have seen there are strong connections between the country’s ancient past and modern present as well as how its emphasis on educational excellence drives its political and economic currents. One of the best ways to fully understand the culture of Korea is to visit Sungkyunkwan and see for yourself a part of the unique historic legacy of the nation’s academic traditions.

Chris Boreman works for Sungkyunkwan University’s Office of International Relations and is a freelance writer.