By Ines Min
Contributing Writer
Hongdae has long had a reputation as the guardian of one of the best creative scenes in Seoul, thanks to Hongik University's renowned art courses. But among the young and restless, it transforms into a vibrant hub of bars, clubs and 24-hour eateries, the signal of rising Western-style nightlife in Korea.
From the cozy yet grungy Tinpan bar, a throbbing mass of foreigners and natives dancing with their drinks in one hand and cigarettes in the other, to the modern Ska 2 club filled with young, hip college students, men and women interact naturally and blissfully.
Gogo's Music Bar is a packed house on Friday and Saturday nights, the majority of whom are regulars. The DJ plays a lot of foreign hits from the 1990s, such as songs from British acts Chumbawamba and Coldplay.
Manager Hwa-Jun Ji said he thinks the choice of music brings in more foreigners, who make up a good portion of his clientele.
"We have to provide clients with what they want," he said, but added that the music culture in the neighborhood is constantly evolving.
Matt Bourgeoise, an American expatriate, started going to Hongdae with a group of friends, and, after two years living in Korea, he's become a regular at Gogo's.
"It's a nice break from Itaewon," said the English teacher, who feels the younger crowds seem to be making the area more popular.
Gogo's bar displays an oversized, sticker-covered tip jar, rivaling that of any in the United States. Tipping is not customary in Korea, so the jar's presence is enough to show how much of an influence Western culture has had on the establishment.
But effects are also seen in the music performance sector, particularly with the growing indie-rock scene in Hongdae. Club FF is one of the most well-known sources of live music - as well as being the first one to offer it back in 2005.
Supervisor Eddie Hwang was the one who transformed the club into the rock venue it is today, from its former glory Funky Funky, which focused on groove.
Hwang said his goal is to bring foreign rock bands to Korea in order to help develop the indie music scene here. The rock music genre and concert culture are completely different stylistically from Korean pop and ballads, he said.
"There's a lot of rock music in other countries, but not in Korea," Hwang said. He added that other clubs play hip-hop, dance, house music or electronic, but in Hongdae, you can find more of the live music culture.
But with all the seemingly competing businesses, Ji said he never thought about possible rivalries between similar establishments. In fact, the last Friday of every month is dedicated to Club Day, where a flat fee of 20,000 won gains entry into 21 different clubs and bars, with a free drink at each.
Certain clubs don't charge foreigners entrance fees in an endeavor to increase the diversity. But, as much as the area has become popular for its Western culture, Hwang doesn't want his club to cater only to foreigners, drawing the line between influence and adulation.