[REVIEW] Night's stay at Baekyang Temple offers more than just inner peace, gratifies with food, meditation, nature's sight

Ssanggyeru Pavilion of Baekyang Temple, located in Jangseong County, North Jeolla Province, Nov. 11 / Korea Times photo by Pyo Kyung-min

Templestay program fulfills city dwellers' desire for personal introspection and nourishing cuisine

By Pyo Kyung-min

JANGSEONG — Nestled near Mount Naejang, a renowned maple spot in North Jeolla Province, the ancient Baekyang Temple in Jangseong County welcomes its visitors with its rich history and tranquil ambiance.

Established in 632 during the 234-678 Baekje period, the name "Baekyang" translates to "white sheep" in Chinese characters. Legend has it that during the reign of King Seonjo of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple earned its name from a fable wherein a white sheep transformed into a boy from heaven after listening to a monk's sermon at the temple.

During a two-day templestay press tour organized by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism from Nov. 10 to 11, participants immersed themselves in the unique ambiance of Baekyang Temple. The serene surroundings, akin to the softness of a white sheep nestled beneath vibrant autumn foliage, underscored the temple's distinctive charms.

Baekyang Temple's templestay programs unfold through three distinct experiences: the resting type, the experience type and Ven. Jeongkwan's temple food program.

The resting type offers participants the freedom to relax and unwind within the compound of the temple, providing a respite from daily life. For the experience type, participants engage in curated activities that include temple guidance, meditation and enlightening tea and talk sessions with the resident monks.

The highlight is the temple food cooking program led by Ven. Jeongkwan, a renowned figure internationally acclaimed for her mastery in temple cuisine preparation. Participants have the privilege to savor a meal prepared by her during this program.

Upon arrival, participants of the two-day press tour underwent a symbolic transformation by donning simple blue Buddhist robes.

The journey began with an orientation where participants familiarized themselves with the rules of the temple, learning essential practices such as the wearing of socks when entering halls, maintaining silence during meals and holding their palms respectfully together when encountering monks.

Later on the same day, participants had the privilege of meeting the renowned Ven. Jeongkwan at Cheonjinam Hermitage, nestled in the mountain behind the temple. Jeongkwan gained international acclaim with her appearance on the third season of Netflix's "Chef's Table" in 2017, where she promoted the rich tradition of Korean temple food to a global audience.

Buddhist monk Ven. Jeongkwan demonstrates her collection of "jangdok," or earthenware jars containing fermented sauces, as she holds up a small bowl of doenjang, Korean-style soybean paste, at Baekyang Temple in Jangseong County, North Jeolla Province, Nov. 10. Korea Times photo by Pyo Kyung-min

Contrary to her fame, Jeongkwan exuded a friendly and humble demeanor.

Taking participants for a stroll around the hermitage, she introduced her collection of jangdok, or earthenware jars, for storing homemade doenjang (soybean paste) and ganjang (soy sauce).

With a touch of pride, she said, "They are my jewels, fermented through their own process, breathing under the sun, the stars and moonlight throughout the years." She proudly showcased the approximately 30-year-old soy sauce with a thick viscosity that almost resembled a balsamic glaze.

Jeongkwan, who espouses the philosophy that "food is all caring and merciful," demonstrated her culinary principles that evening as she served dinner to the participants as a gracious host.

Vegan dishes such as taro soup and tofu paste salad appeared one after another, satisfying both the taste buds and the visual senses of the participants. Among them was her signature dish, shiitake mushrooms braised in grain syrup.

Serving the dish, the monk shared a related story with a deeply personal narrative.

Reflecting on the past, the monk said, "Around seven years after becoming a Buddhist monk, my father paid me a visit. He attempted to persuade me to return home, saying 'there isn't enough to eat in the temple.' Trying to rebut his claims, I prepared and served him a pot of shiitake mushrooms braised in grain syrup."

During the meal, a heartfelt conversation unfolded between father and daughter. As the talk deepened, her father's concerns melted away, replaced by an appreciation for his daughter's religious commitment. Accepting her chosen path, he bowed three times before departing.

"After that visit, my father peacefully passed away in his sleep within a week," she added calmly.

Ven. Jeongkwan prepares her signature dish, shiitake mushrooms braised in grain syrup, as she tells a personal story related to the dish, during a cooking program at Baekyang Temple in North Jeolla Province, Nov. 10. Korea Times photo by Pyo Kyung-min

Jeongkwan revealed that this year, she was unable to take a single day off due to various events showcasing temple food both at home and abroad. Baekyang Temple's temple food experience program is so immensely popular that it is fully booked within a day or two of reservations opening.

The monk expressed her perspective on the current state of temple food culture, pointing out that there is still room for improvement despite its widespread acclaim.

"The introduction of temple food to the world after the 1988 Seoul Olympics presented it in an overly grand manner. Recently, my focus has been on re-establishing the menu to reflect traditional and simple temple food," she remarked.

She elaborated on her aspirations, saying, "My goal is to foster community sharing and communication through temple food. The message I aim to convey is the need to overcome the climate crisis, protect the natural environment and respect life. When I travel abroad to showcase temple food, I intentionally serve a modest selection of about three dishes, departing from the past practice of preparing abundant varieties. My intent is to impart a spiritual message — even with minimal sustenance, one can be fully nourished and utilize it as energy."

She also emphasized the spiritual essence rooted in the Buddha's teachings 2,600 years ago, where 1,200 practitioners shared the act of eating from a single bowl without leaving food uneaten.

In 2022, a total of 2,316 individuals visited Baekyang Temple, with 389 of them being international visitors. This year, as the COVID-19 pandemic subsided and travel resumed in earnest, the number of foreign visitors to the temple so far has nearly doubled compared to the previous year.

Cheonjinam Hermitage, located behind Baekyang Temple in Jangseong County, North Jeolla Province, Nov. 11 / Korea Times photo by Pyo Kyung-min

Around 4 a.m. before sunrise on the second day, the deep mountains echoed with the resonant tolling of the temple bell, marking the commencement of early morning worship.

Under the vast expanse of a clear sky adorned with stars which can rarely be seen from a bustling city like Seoul, the Buddha Hall welcomed Buddhist monks and practitioners who gathered for morning prayers. Despite the early hour and sub-zero temperatures, their unwavering faith illuminated the sacred space.

Following the ritual, templestay participants engaged in a meditation session, applying aromatic oil and meditating to the soothing sounds of crystal singing bowls.

Seated in a cross-legged lotus position, hands placed neatly on their knees, the participants immersed themselves in inner peace, liberating themselves from the entanglements of thoughts and judgments.

The concluding segment of the templestay involved a contemplative conversation with the head of Baekyang Temple. Surrounded by the deep aroma of tea, participants sought guidance from Ven. Mugong on the truths of life.

Ven. Mugong, Baekyang Temple's abbot, speaks during a tea and talk session during a templestay program, Nov. 11. Korea Times photo by Pyo Kyung-min

The senior monk shared that a common concern among visitors was the challenges arising from human relationships, particularly the distress associated with interacting with individuals they dislike.

Reflecting on this, the monk offered profound advice: "When I see people in conflict, I believe the most significant pain arises from harboring hatred."

He extended this perspective to the global stage, lamenting the ideological conflicts plaguing the international community that lead to violence and war.

He recounted a moment when he watched a video related to a religious war, revealing the distressing reality of people resorting to violence due to deep-seated animosities.

"I couldn't hold back tears watching it. Looking at it, I thought about how toxic the heart becomes when humans hate each other, and whether people should be so cruel, leading to collective unhappiness due to religious prejudice," he said.

He underscored the importance of philanthropy and cultivating a good heart that transcends religious differences.

"All of us here may have different religions, but it is of paramount importance to have a good heart regardless of beliefs, such as having affection for humanity, helping the weak and knowing how to reflect on one's prejudices toward others," he said.