![]() |
Water bearers circa 1910-1930 / Courtesy of Robert Neff |
By Robert Neff
In 19th century-Seoul, an integral part of the city's infrastructure was the community well. These wells served between 50 and 300 houses each and were built from stone blocks placed in a circle, which one American visitor described as "among the most picturesque objects" in Seoul. Located in "out-of-way corners of the streets, just off the current of travel, at once in the highway and yet out of it," they were busy places frequented mainly by servants and the lower class.
While most of the wells' patrons were merely interested in obtaining fresh water, others sought supernatural assistance.
Not too far from Gyeongbok Palace -- near modern Insa-dong -- there was once a well that was famed for its crystal clear water and, more importantly, magic. It was believed if a woman, even one who was said to be barren, drank water from the well she would be blessed with many children. Naturally it was a popular place. The well was so successful that legend claims that during their occupation of Seoul in the 1590s, the Japanese attempted to destroy the well with a giant copper plug but failed. Water from the well, discolored by the copper plug, stained the stones yellow thus giving the well its name: Kuri (Copper) Well.
This was not the only well popular with women in Seoul. Near Donuimun (West Gate) there was a small well famed for its power to enrich the breasts of women with milk. Women who did not produce enough milk for their baby would go to the well in the morning and toss noodles into its depths in hopes the spirit that dwelt within would provide her more milk. According to a 1903 account:
"The spirit within only granted its favor once daily and women who arrived too late would have to return the following day or the day after in hopes of being the first to try and summon the spirit."
Even the dead sought out wells for comfort.
In the early 1900s, people -- especially lone women -- were afraid to use one of the wells in the Jeongdong area because it was said to be haunted by a ghost begging for water. People believed the apparition was a man who had been executed near Souimun ("Promotion of Justice Gate" -- also known as Seosomun or the Southwest Gate) and was doomed to roam the area seeking water to ease his unquenchable thirst.
Some wells had an evil taint to them from the beginning. Legends claim a well-known geomancer in the 1880s was commanded to select a site for a well on the grounds of Gyeonghui Palace -- a place infamous for being haunted. The well was dug and as soon as water was discovered, the geomancer became gravely ill and died a few days later.
Occasionally, women or small children were found dead in the wells. Most were accidental drownings -- victims who had slipped on the wet stones and had fallen in -- but others were deliberate; a common form of suicide for women was to cast themselves into deep wells. Some people believed many of the accidental drownings were, in fact, caused by the malevolent spirits of the suicide victims who would reach up and snatch people drawing water from the well.
One man reported that while drawing water, something reached up from the well's depths and grabbed his top-knot but he managed to escape its deadly grasp. Everyone was convinced the well was haunted and was to blame for the countless number of men and women who had drowned in it. They begged the authorities to demolish it but whether it was ever done or not is unknown.
Accounts of haunted wells appeared in newspaper articles throughout the early 20th century but with modernization and the elimination of community wells, they have disappeared and are now fading memories of the past.
Robert Neff is a historian and columnist for The Korea Times. He can be reached at robertneff103@gmail.com.