Book-shaped building to revive Busan's fading book street

Scoula di Atene, opened in Busan's Bosu-dong in March, resembles a shelf of books, Tuesday. Korea Times photo by Kwak Yeon-soo

By Kwak Yeon-soo

BUSAN ― It's 10 a.m. on a sunny April day in Busan's Bosu-dong. Off the main road is the blink-and-you'll-miss-it entrance to Bosu Book Street. The narrow, 200-meter-long passage is lined on both sides with independent bookstores.

The bookstore alley in Bosu-dong was formed when a refugee couple from North Hamgyong Province (now North Korea) started selling vintage magazines when Busan became the country's provisional capital during the 1950-53 Korean War.

By the 1970s, more than 70 bookstores were established in the area, giving the neighborhood a unique character and spirit.

"Bosu Book Street is our beautiful cultural heritage that was born out of the most turbulent time in modern Korean history. Since then, the street has retained its old charms. People overcame despair and healed the wounds of war through books," Kim Eun-ho, the president of Hangilsa Publishing, writes in his latest book "Into the Forest of Wisdom" (literal translation).

Since the 2000s, the number of independent bookstores on Bosu Book Street has fallen by more than half due to the expansion of chain bookstores and e-books. Now some 30 bookstores remain on the road.

There have been efforts to preserve the street's historical value and distinct identity. In 2019, Busan Metropolitan City designated the bookstore alley as Busan's Future Heritage for playing a symbolic role as a major cultural space for book lovers over seven decades.

The bookstore alley in Bosu-dong is lined on both sides with independent bookstores. Korea Times photo by Kim Kang-min

On March 4, a cafe named Scoula di Atene (The School of Athens) ― shaped like a row of large books on a shelf ― opened in Bosu-dong in an attempt to revive the street. The landmark building immediately caught the attention of young, trend-conscious visitors.

Kim Dae-kwon, CEO of Scoula di Atene, said he initially planned to build a 15-story officetel, a multi-purpose building with residential and commercial units. However, after realizing the historical significance of Bosu Book Street, Kim changed his mind and remodeled the building into a cultural complex.

"My initial plan of building an officetel has met with strong opposition from local people, especially book vendors," he said during an interview with The Korea Times, Tuesday.

"I was later convinced that Bosu Book Street needed to continue its legacy because it's more than a place where you can buy books. It's a place of living history. It has survived a turbulent history, touched lives and benefited communities around Bosu-dong. I used to come here to buy school and university textbooks."

Kim Dae-kwon, CEO of Scoula di Atene, poses holding Leo Tolstoy's "Anna Karenina" in front of a replica of Raphael's self-portrait at his cafe in Busan's Bosu-dong, Tuesday. Korea Times photo by Kim Kang-min

After deciding to build a cultural complex, the 49-year-old designed the building to be a local landmark.

The four-story building exterior is a large wall that has been painted to look like a row of classic novels. The beautiful display showcases books such as "Nicomachean Ethics" by Aristotle and "Timaeus" by Plato.

Kim designed the first floor to accommodate three independent bookstores ― Woori Geulbang, Gukje Bookstore and Chungnam Bookstore. From the second to the fourth floor is a cafe. The space can be rented for meetings and events.

The ceiling of Scoula di Atene displays a replica of "The School of Athens" by Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino, seen on Tuesday. Korea Times photo by Kim Kang-min

The large art piece on the ceiling is sure to draw many eyes and visitors into the building. "The art piece on the ceiling is a replica painting of 'The School of Athens' by Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino (Raphael)," he explained.

"I'm a fan of Raphael, who is one of greatest painters of the Renaissance along with Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni. I made an order to the art company in Seoul, and it took about three to four months to complete that painting."

Kim's affection for ancient philosophers is shown in the sculptures in the building. There are two full-body sculptures of Appollo and Athena as well as five other busts of Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Pythagoras and Hypatia.

"I studied law in college but always had a strong interest in philosophy. Because I work in the field of architecture and interior design, I also have a profound interest in art history," he said.

"When I designed the concept of this building, I wanted to surprise people three times ― first by its cheerful exterior, next by the amazing ceiling painting and finally the sculptures from old car parts and scrap metal."

The signature dish of Scoula di Atene, "Bosu Book Bread" named after Bosu Book Street, is shaped like an open book, Tuesday. Korea Times photo by Kim Kang-min

The cafe's menu has a unique item that matches well with Bosu Book Street. The signature coffee is named after Mildawon, a coffeehouse that used to be a meeting place for a group of 20th-century artists and literary figures like Lee Jung-seob, Kim Dong-ni and Hwang Sun-won. The signature bread, called Bosu Book Bread, is shaped like an open book.

"Those who have nostalgia for the bookstore alley in Bosu-dong expressed their delight at the opening of Scoula di Atene. In the past, the street was bustling only during school vacations or holiday breaks. After the cafe opened in March, the number of visitors soared and booksellers are happy about it too," Kim said.

The CEO expressed his wish to share the joy of arts and cultural experiences with as many people as possible.

"Reading is at risk these days. Even I don't read as many books as I did before. However, I think it is essential to spend some time on reading and recharge. My ultimate goal is to create a space where people can come together through arts and culture," he said. "To achieve that, I plan to host tiny concerts and exhibitions in the future."